Maison des Mots Barbara-jo Residency

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La Maison des Mots - July 2023

Summertime, and the Blooming is easy !

Recently, I took two weeks away from my French home, garden, and Minette. I had not been away this long in 3 ½ years. I returned, rested and in good form, but the shock of what had transpired in my absence to my beautiful - but suddenly unruly - garden started me thinking about just how I had been living these past years.

Through various situations and circumstances, my life has been dedicated to this unique and storied patch of France. La Charité sur Loire, well over 1000 years young, a UNESCO heritage site, positioned beautifully on the Loire River. About half way from the mountain stream to the sea beyond Nantes - the West end of Burgundy. A Prairie surrounds the town, fields of dreamy Sunflowers, Canola, Wheat. This region is the origin of Vache Charolaise. One can velo ou voiture through pastoral hills and valleys. Gaze at bales of picture-perfect hay bundled and ready for the hungry cow come Winter.

And the Wine. Beautiful, delicious, delicate, wine. Sancerre is probably the most well-known wine area, closer still is Pouilly sur Loire which has a small production of Chasselas (wine is called Pouilly sur Loire) and a large production of Pouilly Fume – Sauvignon extraordinaire. And, even more exciting is the emergence of a thriving Cote du la Charité. Some of the tastiest Pinot Noir I have enjoyed discovering.

Sancerre vineyards, and wine tasting at Pouilly-sur-Loire

Of course, the monks were making wine in this town a very long time ago, when a great deal of the agriculture was dedicated to the grapes. The grassy green slope under the ramparts on the north side of the old town, was once covered in vines and rumour has it that vines will be replanted here again bientot. After Phylloxera (commence 1860) destroyed the vines, this area became dedicated to other agriculture, while Pouilly became a growing concern.

When I purchased this garden, I had dreams of creating a place of comfort and joy. Vegetables growing amongst the flowers. A monastery garden of sorts, paying homage to the history of this very old plot of earth and the town's religious roots. Of course, I was naïve about what it would take to do this, on the big 3 fronts - physically, financially, and emotionally.

When Covid set in, the garden became an obsession. As with many ideas I have devised and jumped into, I let myself rely on intuition to carry me along. So, I did jump in, and there have been many joyous moments – along with the kind of heartfelt frustrations only the devoted gardener can truly appreciate. Much like the sailor who buys a vintage yacht and sees only the glory of cutting across the waves, there never seems to be enough money to satisfy the constant demands of maintaining a large and beautiful garden. I have come to learn that the contented gardener must be practical as well as passionate.

What I did not fully understand before I went on a two-week vacation in June, is just how much work I do put into this garden, every day, year in and year out.

This point was driven home by the fact that my garden had morphed into a jungle during my time away. The slugs took charge - consuming all those precious little greens that I seeded not once, but twice. My tomato plants, that I staked and tied well the night before I left, were a mangled mess. My crop will be 1/3 of what I had hoped for. And what those slugs have done to my cucumbers and courgettes! In the past these sure bet legumes have grown with such abandon that I’d give them away for free. Today I had to purchase courgettes at the Farmer’s Marche. My neighbour gave me a cucumber.

So, I went far away from this place for a while and I had a marvelous time, albeit tres emotional at moments. I swam in the sea, I stared at mountains, I ate different foods. I missed Minette and I pondered my future.

I think when one uproots themself from the town they were born and raised; in a town where they worked happily for so many years, they will always feel a tad unsettled. Especially in another culture. But I have returned to this place of deep history, rumply streets and houses with mysterious facades.

Will I be here until death do us part ? I know naught. These past years of acute observance, beaucoup quiet and singular moments, have encouraged me not to plan with strenuous concern. But I am here now, and loving it. Better yet, I always enjoy visiting guests coming to share in what I love. I offer many ideas for enjoying this house and town. Excursion packages, of which some will be curated for moments of annual events in this region. Cooking classes can be organised. Writing retreats, bed, and breakfast.

I have signed on to Airbnb and offer the Atelier on the Jardin, and for late 2023 and 2024, I will transform my apartment on the 3rd floor into a rental for 5 days minimum, possibly a week, 2 weeks, a month (or maybe longer) stay. This flat has 2 bedrooms, one with a single bed, the other with a Queen size bed, a kitchenette, bathroom, and a small salon. About 900 feet, and is available all year round. Both the Atelier and the 3rd floor flat will be available through arrangement with me or Airbnb. I will move myself to the 2nd floor, and take over one of the guest rooms and this floor's library. The second floor has two guest rooms, one with a double bed, the other with a double bed and a single bed. There is plenty of room for guests to enjoy themselves not only in their chambre, but on the ground floor in the library, salon, dining room, kitchen, courtyard, and unquestionably, la Jardin.

With these changes, the house can sleep up to 9 paying guests at one time. 3 double beds, 3 single beds. This house and garden are not good for wee, young folk -14 and over is fine.

So, I leave you with this missive, and encourage you to think about what you love when you are in the mood for an out of city experience. Look at your calendar, and the website. Picture yourself in this pastoral haven, sleeping in my comfortable old house, relaxing in the garden, just being yourself - or a character from another era - in this ancient town full of history and joy, complete with a river running through it. Come away with me, to discover or return to, La Charité sur Loire.

Gros Bisous,

Madame M et Minette

La Charité sur Loire, Summer - l’ete 2023